It’s not easy making a single effect that works well for both. If you’re doing a first person title you’ll probably want to separate first person muzzleflashes from third person ones. A scrolling noise pattern or alpha erosion can give the flame a more natural fluidity. Use material effects to add even more variety. This’ll keep you from seeing the flatness of the billboards if the flame is pointed toward you. This way if you’ve got directional billboards they’ll fade out of view if you see them at a sheer angle. Apply a fresnel fade to your flash material. I was also wondering, if there is a specific blend mode I could use to make it blend with the environment better? I was thinking about using additive instead of just transparent, but in the famous Blizzard talk about Diablo 2 I learned that it will go to white way too drastically on brighter backgrounds.Īny additional feedback is really appreciated! Should I go for a greyscale texture and use the coloring in UE to create that bloom? The muzzle flash sideview is currently just a texture taken from google, which I will replace with my own. He also said that the muzzle flashes in ghost recon have a lot of glow, which mine are currently lacking. I showed this to a buddy of mine and he pointed out that my effect does not blend well with the environment like in ghost recon for example. How can I create more detailed textures? Any recommendations for software or workflows? Just going for some standard photoshop noise and taking a portion out of it works okay, but it doesn’t have that high quality detail like in modern games. I’ve only used billboard particles and my main concern is the creation of the textures. It’s likely going to be rather small (compared to first person shooters), but I still want it to look as good as possible for my possible client (this is somewhat of an art test). The muzzle flash I am creating is for a 3rd person isometric game. Thanks for the input guys, I really appreciate it! Most tutorials on muzzle flashes just use one texture and put that on repeat, but it looks very different from high quality muzzle flashes.Īre there any other little tricks I am missing here? I’m having a hard time to find good materials/resources to learn about how I can go from bad/mediocre muzzle flashes to really good looking stuff. One key aspect I am probably missing is variation in textures. I’m experimenting with my own creation of muzzle flashes and what I found out so far is that it’s a lot harder to create than one might think. Also, I’m wondering, if it would impact performance at all or don’t I have to worry about that for the current generation? Here’s another example I found on art station, which uses more complex meshes:īut I don’t get the same kind of quality feeling from it like with the ones from Ghost Recon. Am I wrong about it and the meshes used are more complex than I think? In this video there are some super cool muzzle flashes being showcased: and to my surprise they look like just plane shapes to me, but they still feel super 3D. Are they using cone shaped meshes or just plane meshes stacked into each other to get them more plus-shaped? The cheap trick here is that it's very backlit so it looks like he's being revealed by the muzzle flash.I’m currently wondering how AAA studios tackle muzzle flashes for their weapons. Batteries inside, power switched on and off by a reed switch actuated by a magnet on the removable magazine. In this case it's infra-red triggered and the emitters are hidden in the mock sight on top of the machine pistol he's holding. This is ungraded, without the flame effect composited in. In bright lighting conditions it doesn't make much difference, but in the dark, I think it's quite effective. Some of our prop guns had electronics in them to trigger the flash via a TV-remote-style infrared communications protocol, and I built a tiny PCB with a microphone to allow things to be triggered from the soft "pop" produced by an airsoft gun, where there wasn't room to include electronics. The actual light-emitting device was a load of LED strip stuck on a bit of plastic, equivalent to about 20W of LED, which wasn't really bright enough - I've since bought a much more powerful emitter and controller board for it but I don't currently have much use for it, so it's a backburnered project right now. I built a rig for doing this using LED strip and a microcontroller board, so it could be timed to sync with the shutter and avoid flash banding on rolling-shutter cameras, as well as ensuring that the flash was actually visible.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |